TRENDER
Lesson 01 : Trends, social currency and eternal repetition
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● What is a "Trendsetter"?
A trendsetter is a person or entity specializing in the analysis and forecasting of trends in various fields, such as fashion, design, consumerism, technology, or social behavior. Trendsetters monitor cultural, economic and technological changes to identify emerging trends that could influence the future.
In short, a trendsetter is an observer and analyst of changes and evolutions in society, whose forecasts help to anticipate future creations.
● Our training:
Trendsetter training aims to develop the skills needed to anticipate and analyze market and consumer trends. It is organized in 3 parts and is finalized by a "Tendanceur PROMOSTYL" certification.
This training course therefore prepares you to become a key player in decision-making and the development of products and services in line with market expectations.
● Your free trial:
We present the first part of the first lesson.
To benefit from the full course, you must register for it.
A - SOME HISTORY
AN ANTHROPOLOGICAL TRAIT
The term may be anachronistic, but trends have shaped centuries of social codes between human beings.
As Yuval Harari demonstrates (quote below), the most trivial elements of our society, from gossip to trends, form the foundations of the greatest human civilizations.
Trends are useful for understanding the visions and desires of an era, the representations of hierarchies and economic dynamics.
As we shall see, the term goes far beyond fashion artifacts, encompassing everything from behavior and design to vacation desires.
A.2 - A HISTORY OF STATUS
Before the democratization of fashion trends, made accessible to all thanks to the development of ready-to-wear clothing, outfits were highly regulated by etiquette.
For example, it was out of the question for the "plebs" in Roman times to wear purple, a color difficult to obtain and reserved exclusively for the emperor.
Similarly, in China during the time of the emperors, it was forbidden to wear bright yellow, which was reserved exclusively for them. Those who defied the ban were liable to the death penalty.
Trends" are above all a matter of caste and class, and demonstrate the purchasing power of each and every individual.
The color purple, obtained from Murex shells, was, in Phoenician times, a symbol of power, wealth and might. It was dedicated to emperors and then to the noblest of society's subjects. ©DR
A.3 - POSITIONING IN SOCIETY
Fashions are also sometimes regulated by official edicts or unofficial laws. For example, it was customary to bring out one's summer wardrobe at Easter, regardless of the weather.
Several sumptuary edicts, under the reigns of Henri IV and Louis XIII, forced the bourgeoisie to be more modest. Under the reign of Louis XIII, the elegant renounced strawberries and replaced them with a jabot: a flat square collar edged with lace.
Likewise, Melanchthon published a number of dress guidelines for Lutheran churchgoers: sober, discreet colors in browns, beiges, blacks...
Trends allow the expression of brands or individuals within the "social pack"; the latter can be considered progressive or conservative, pioneers or followers, distinguished, integrated or marginal, with or without strong purchasing power, depending on the products, services or attitudes they adopt.
The codes, sometimes complex, can lead to certain surprises; once identified, trends evolve in new directions. They become old-fashioned, and old-fashioned becomes trendy...
The groups targeted by marketing sometimes abandon the products intended for them in favor of those designed for other audiences.
B - OPPOSING DYNAMICS
B.1 - MIRRORED SOCIETAL CODES
From time immemorial, most social dynamics have observed 2 main currents:
An exchange between bourgeois and street codes & An exchange between younger and older generations.
I. AN EXCHANGE BETWEEN BOURGEOIS AND STREET CODES
Dior's "Saddle" bag is an emblematic example of a dynamic exchange between bourgeois and street codes.
Inspired by the bananas of popular '90s silhouettes, this iconic piece embodies the successful fusion of sophisticated luxury and casual urban aesthetics.
The "Saddle" was originally a luxury bag designed by John Galliano,
Dior's artistic director at the time, in 1999 for the Spring/Summer 2000 collection, inspired by the equestrian world. Its distinctive shape was reminiscent of a horse saddle, earning it an iconic status within the Dior brand.
Dior recently reinterpreted the "Saddle" as a more streetwear satchel, retaining its luxury essence while incorporating elements of street codes. This new version of the "Saddle" bag retains its characteristic horse-saddle-inspired shape, but adopts materials and details that make it more suited to a casual, urban aesthetic.
This reinterpretation has been rapidly adopted by fashion enthusiasts the world over, from luxury lovers to streetwear followers. Its unique blend of sophistication and casualness has made it an accessory prized by a wide range of consumers, reflecting the evolving expectations and preferences of the modern consumer.
The product's widespread adoption reveals the growing influence of exchanges between the worlds of luxury fashion and street culture. By reconciling these two seemingly opposing worlds, Dior has succeeded in creating an iconic piece that transcends the traditional boundaries of fashion, placing it at the heart of contemporary trends.
Another example is the rapid evolution of notions of luxury and cool. The luxury of yesteryear was based on refinement, good taste and the precious.
Today, while notions of extreme quality endure, young consumers have no desire for luxury that seems "dated", conventional and boring. Particularly with the impetus of a new market driven by the *BRICS, led by China, luxury is synonymous with self-expression, discovery, experience... anything but a conventional style!
II. N EXCHANGE BETWEEN YOUNGER AND OLDER GENERATIONS
The long trench coat is a striking example of the current generation's reappropriation of the codes of the past. This emblematic piece revisits the codes of the 90s with modernity, to become a symbol of contemporary, timeless style.
It has long been associated with elegance and sophistication, evoking the timeless glamour of past decades. In the 90s, this piece was particularly prized, embodying the chic, minimalist aesthetic of that era.
Since then, Alexander McQueen has revisited the long trench coat, breathing new life and a modern aesthetic into it. While retaining the classic elements that made this iconic piece famous, McQueen has adapted it to the contemporary context, playing with cuts, materials and details.
The long trench coat quickly captured the hearts of young consumers, who embraced its retro-chic aesthetic. A symbol of sophistication and timeless style, this piece has become a staple of modern wardrobes, attesting to young people's ability to reinterpret the codes of the past to express their own identity.
The widespread adoption of the long trench coat by the current generation testifies to the growing importance of reappropriating past trends in contemporary fashion. By reinterpreting the codes of the 90s with a fresh, innovative perspective, Alexander McQueen has created a piece that transcends generations and eras.
Another example: in uncertain times like these, it's sometimes reassuring to look back to periods that seem like golden ages (the 30 glorious years, sexual freedom, the communities of the 90's...).
These periods are experienced as nostalgic for most of the designers who create fashion (millennials, aged between 30 and 40) - and as more authentic for those who wear it (generation Z nostalgic for the 90s because they seem more spontaneous, more human, because of a "pre-internet" era).
As a result, we're seeing the looks of parents' and grandparents' generations returning to the catwalks, and a divide between those who lived the period to the full and don't want to relive it, and those who want to exhume it.
B.2 - DISRUPTION VS MIMICRY
As we saw in chapter A of this lesson, Yuval Noah Harari, in his book Sapiens, reminds us that man is a gregarious animal, born to live in a community.
Community members respond to two major dynamics, highlighted by Georg Simmel (1858-1918) and cited by Guillaume Erner in his book Sociologie des tendances.
C - DIFFUSION BY MIMICRY
C.1 - TREND DIFFUSION CURVE
A trend includes a notion of time, of the number of adherents to its movement and of a direction (increasing or decreasing).
Its definition raises the question of its creation and its end, as well as the identity of those who follow the trend.
Let's focus first on the archetypal composition of the groups of people who make up the traditional life cycle of a trend.
C.2 - INNOVATION CURVE ACCORDING TO BRYCE RYAN & NEAL GROSS (1943)
This so-called "diffusion curve" explains the spread of ideas, products or behaviors within society. It highlights different categories of the population that are more or less sensitive to new products and innovations.
Let's take a closer look at its components:
- Innovators (2.5%)These are the people who are most open to new things. Most have the desire and the means to try new products or innovations, even if they fail.
- Early adopters (13.5%)They are more selective and will take more information about the product or service before adopting it. They generally wait for feedback from "Innovators" before making up their minds.
- Early majority (34%)They generally wait for feedback from "Innovators" before deciding whether the new trend is easy to integrate into their daily lives.
- Late majority (34%)They tend to accept novelty out of social pressure. They become followers once the trend is well established.
- Laggards (16%)They tend to be traditional, relying on past experience. They are reluctant to invest in novelties that seem neither useful nor pragmatic.
Take yoga, for example:
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The training team